This is a long one, so buckle up.
During the week of Obon (8/12 – 8/16), both of my schools were closed, so I was given no choice but to take a vacation. I didn’t complain, for what ensued was one of the most eventful weeks of exploration I have ever lived.
Kobe!
You heard it here first.
On Tuesday morning I took the train down to Hyogo prefecture with another JET friend, where I got to see the beautiful Pacific Ocean like I’ve never seen it before.
It was the strangest thing to be standing in the sand on the opposite side of the Pacific, an ocean that I had been so familiar with all my life. That wasn’t the only strange thing about this place. Growing up in So-Cal, my idea of a beach was limited to a vast sandy ocean-front with volleyball nets, or a rocky ocean cliffs rising above the waves. Either way, waves – and usually surfers – was a given. Such was not the case at Suma. There was no vast sandy beach, no rocky cliffs, and no waves. Rather, the oceanfront was lined with crowded little cantinas playing up a Caribbean theme. There seemed to be no distinguishing where the cantina began or ended, as the party vibe spilled out over the narrow strand of sand and into the wave-less water where smiling people splashed around in plastic inflatable inner-tubes. It was quite the scene to take in. But my fair skin couldn’t sit and stare for too long, so I went for a swim in the calm, warm waters – such a delightful relief from the sweltering Kyoto heat.
After a few hours, we headed for Kobe city. And it was beautiful.
I’m quickly learning that every city in Japan is quite unique in it’s own way. Kobe was the first city in Japan to open its ports to international trade around the turn of the 20th century, and the international character of the city still lives strong. It was quite nice to feel like less of a foreigner for a bit. I even got to see a bit of China inside Japan, two of my favorite countries in the same place!
Kobe China town.
My friends and I had a delightful time getting lost in Kobe and finding a random hole-in-the-wall Japanese restaurant with some of the most oishii food. Then we finished off the night in classic Bruin-adventure fashion – trying to get on the roof of the biggest building around. Although we fell short, the view was still awesome.
Shreddin the Nara
Nara may be one of the most fascinating places in Japan. Its history actually predates that of Kyoto, as it was the first ever national capital of Japan (until it’s transfer to Kyoto around 800A.D.). Not only do the people here have ancient roots, apparently the local Sika Deer do as well. Some hundreds of years ago, the deer were deemed sacred, and killing one was a capital offense. Consequently, the deer have gotten a bit too comfortable here over the centuries. Seriously, these things are tamer than most peoples’ dogs, maybe even my own (sorry Buddy).
We came to Nara at the perfect time. Once a year, during Obon festival, the beauty of Nara park is brilliantly lit to it’s full potential. Think of an ancient Japanese city attempting an American Christmas light display. It was magnificent.
First of all, the park is lined with thousands of ancient stone lanterns, and every one of them houses a flickering candle behind a thin paper screen.
As per usual, the festival has developed a more contemporary edge as well. None the less majestic:
Then, of course, Nara demonstrated its ability to wow in a classic Japanese fashion. Nara park is famous for its vast and rolling grassy fields, and during this special week, the field itself is lit up – also with thousands upon thousands of candles placed in intricate and beautiful patterns that sprawl like tapestries across the green. It was stunning, and once again my little camera was out of its league.
A Couple Kyoto Classics
Oh man I love my city. Nara’s Obon display was epic, but Kyoto really knows how to strut its stuff. I’m starting to see how it has earned it’s reputation as the nation’s cultural capital. All throughout the week, many of Kyoto’s thousands of temples demonstrate their fully-lit beauty as well. On Thursday night I set out to see the esteemed Kiyomizu lighting ceremony. Kiyomizu is an ancient Kyoto monolith of a temple built in the hillside of the eastern mountain – all without a single nail! Like a Lincoln Logger’s dream. It was stunning.
Upon nightfall, a brilliant spotlight burst from the temple complex, creating a strange UFO-like illusion.
Very sugoi. Even better was the view of the city from the top. This is where my jaw really dropped.
My camera really struggled here, so this one’s a google image pic of what I was seeing, I think it captures the magic a bit more.
What I found to be surprisingly delightful was Kiyomizu’s neighborhood. Some city’s will bury time-capsuls in the ground, but Kyoto has places like this instead. Narrow stone streets, traditional architecture, kimono-stores… I really felt like I crossed a time-portal. Here’s a little pre-sunset snapshot:
We followed this neighborhood, in all it’s traditional beauty, to Kodaiji, also lit up in it’s Obon best. The lanterns still amazed me, even during my second visit.
Then there’s this goober:
A skanking Japanese ghost! I love this country.
Wandering on through ancient Kyoto, we stumbled upon yet another surprise. As we passed by a narrow street we caught a glimpse of four geishas bowing in formation as their high-roller dinner guest drove off into the night. Unreal.
Next stop was another unexpected discovery. I still don’t know the name of this place, but it was pretty sweet. I’m really digging this whole lantern thing.
Then, it was time to cross back into the modern world. And what a fitting gate to pass through:
Daimonji
Friday marks the final night of traditional Obon festivities. The entire week is centered upon Buddhist ceremonies of paying homage the ancestors, who are believed to return to Japan during the holiday. Japanese Buddhists will visit ancestral graves and even cook meals for their visiting ancestors. My guess is that the lit up temples are meant to call them home. Daimonji is where they send them off. On Friday evening I met up with my supervisor, where I was invited over to her friend’s house. It was pretty humbling being invited to a real Japanese home during this big festival, and I was quite delighted to find that she is a stellar cook. After a stunning meal, my supervisor, her friend’s daughter, and I rode off by bicycle to a local sports club in the northern part of the city. We ascended the elevator to the crowded roof of the 6 story building that was all a-buzz with excitement. Around 9PM the cameras came out as a giant “Dai” (大) kanji came blazing to life in the mountainside.
Shortly thereaftere, 4 more flaming kanji appeared in the surrounding mountains. It was truly breathtaking – to be standing upon a roof-top in this stunning city, witnessing such a legendary event.
The next morning, I joined forces with a few other JET friends for yet another adventure. In the sweltering heat, we defied dehydration to hike to the summit of the giant Dai to view the ashes from the previous night’s bonfire. Even more impressive was the view.
I love this city.
Sunday
To my knowledge, Saturday’s hike marks the official end of all the Obon traditions. On Monday, Japan is back to work. But then there’s Sunday. In the eyes of Obon, it is nothing more than an average Sunday. Yet through the eyes of a minority movement in Kyoto, this average Sunday is more cherished than any of the preceding days. For me as well, this day held the most joy. With a few of my friends, I rode the subway out to western Kyoto city for the evening service of Kyoto International Church, where I was blessed with the pure delight of joining my international, bilingual family in singing praises to the God of all creation, Who’s love is more delightful than even my favorite Japanese cuisine. What better way to finish such a epic week?
KonnichiWhatsup 